Saturday, December 17, 2005

You No Like, You No Pay!

Those are the words of chef Tony Yeh, pictured below.

Last night, for the second night in a row, Ferlotta and I dined at Onaga, the Guam-cuisine mecca of Bellevue Center Mall. The owner, Tony Yeh, was formerly the kitchen manager at 101st Airborne. He has opened a low-cost eatery in a mall's food court that rivals Nashville's big-ticket grub joints (for example, the food is much better than Nick and Rudy's downtown).

On Thursday, for a total of about 17 bucks, we had lemon-coconut grouper (prepared in a fashion that I cannot deduce, but amazingly good) and shrimp pacifica (prawns in a zingy chili-tomato sauce). Each entree was served with the best grilled veggies I've had anywhere (the grouper was served with grilled carrots, daikon, asparagus, potatoes--the shrimp with grilled carrots, tomatoes, daikon, asparagus and broccoli) and rice pilaf that was wonderfully flavored. Oh yeah, and pretty good cheesecake, too.

Last night we had beer-cheese soup (yes, just like at 101st....amazing), the vegetarian plate (lotsa different grilled veggies, plus a roasted potato and rice), chicken marsala (very good) and grilled Mahi-Mahi (served with an amazing citrus/wine sauce).

Mr Yeh will talk your ear off as you order (making sure you are getting something that you'll like), and he gives each party a lot of attention, ensuring that everyone leaves happy. From the time we ordered, our food arrived hot and fresh-seeming within 5 minutes. He came out and played with our daughter, even doing a little song and dance, which made her laugh. We were left with the impression that this was a man who truly loves what he is doing, and it shows.

He let me look back into the kitchen, and it was very clean. There were two folks back there (a grill-guy and a "line cook", and it looked like an efficient set-up, indeed. I didn't see a microwave. There is a limited menu (varies daily), but I reckon this lets them get a few different things out quickly, and with precision.

We will continue to rave about this place, and give it our highest recommendation (especially considering the price). I am sure that the place will eventually expand, though I hope they retain the simple, fast, highly-personable style.

Hollie Shulick, a local food critic with whom I occasionally agree, wrote this review of Onaga.

1 Comments:

Blogger Cam said...

Wow, I miss this place. Best food on the planet. I have searched high and low to see if Tony has opened up another location. If you find that he is still in business somewhere, please post the info! -Cam

10:13 AM  

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